Day 3: Roncesvalles to Zubiri

22 km (phone says 34.4 km total for the day; 21.4 miles – – I feel like it is a mistake but . . . We all live by Apple.)

September 19, 2018

I was so tired when I got to Roncesvalles that the only way I could imagine getting up and going again the next day is if I knew I had a bed waiting for me.  So I made a reservation at Zubiri, about 21 km away.  I had hoped for something closer but Zubiri was half way to Pamplona where I had promised myself a rest day.  So I also booked a hotel room (such luxury) for two nights in Pamplona.  The problem was that I had started the Camino with the intention of not making reservations and letting things work out as they were meant to be.  I had already broken the promise to myself not to plan so much, but it was a compromise as I really didn’t think I would be able to make it without a set goal in mind.

Leaving Roncesvalles was a lovely, fairly flat, walk on a dirt path. There was fog rolling off the mountain adding a touch of mystic to the walk. I walked with a group of friends from Orrison and our first stop was a market to buy some fruit. I pushed a bit to keep up with the group which is why I think later I had to slow way down.

The walk into Zubiri was downhill at times with many rocks so every step was carefully planted. I was so grateful for my hiking poles. I used to not want to hike with them but so far on the Camino they have been essential to keeping me upright and moving forward.

I was delighted when my friend Caitlyn from Kentucky, who I had first met at Orrison, was in the bunk bed above me in Zubiri. That gave me the energy to talk her in to going to a cafe for dinner. The pizza was good and a nice change from the pilgrim meals which are so far consistently soup, bread, chicken, and a small dessert, but with wine. I also enjoyed a glass of cava. Lunch so far has been chorizo on bread and Coke. It was the first time I skipped washing out my clothes but luckily I knew I was heading to a hotel the next night. Paying for laundry had never been more worth it.

4 Replies to “Day 3: Roncesvalles to Zubiri”

  1. Are the stamps collected along the way?

    1. Yes. I have to have at least one each day/two a day closer to Santiago. Every Albergue gives one when I check in. Churches and cafes have them too. When I stayed in a hotel in Pamplona I went to the cathedral to get a stamp for that day.

  2. I LOVE this adventure!

    1. Thanks!

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